tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-44216891246162724852024-03-13T19:26:59.089-07:00One World QuiltingStevenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06022843432830788973noreply@blogger.comBlogger18125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4421689124616272485.post-5840438033002873472017-12-21T15:08:00.000-08:002017-12-21T15:08:11.172-08:00Better Than Sex Biscuits!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I thought I made great biscuits, but these are better!<br />
<br />
I simply had to share this recipe because, if you think your mom made the best biscuits, I can say with great confidence, you’re probably wrong and these are better. They are everything a great biscuit should be - light, fluffy, buttery, and easy to make.<br />
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I will begin by saying <u>don’t substitute anything in this recipe</u>, and if your baking powder has been sitting on the shelf, open, for more than 3 months, throw it out and buy new. Yes, I’m serious! It makes a huge difference. Oh, and if you don't have buttermilk on hand, don't substitute! Go buy a pint of buttermilk at the grocery store. The recipe only uses a cup, but the biscuits will disappear, and you will want to make a second batch immediately!<br />
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<h3>
Better Than Sex Biscuits </h3>
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Preheat your oven to 425 degrees.</div>
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Spray a plain, single layer baking sheet with non stick cooking spray (not double layer “airbake” baking sheet-save those for cookies). </div>
<h4>
In a mixing bowl, combine:</h4>
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2 cups all purpose flour</div>
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1 slightly rounded tablespoon of baking powder (fresh)</div>
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1 tablespoon white sugar</div>
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1 teaspoon salt</div>
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Blend these dry ingredients with a wire whisk. </div>
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Add 1/3 cup plain shortening </div>
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Cut this into the dry ingredients with two butter knives, or a pastry cutter until the mixture resembles VERY coarse corn meal. </div>
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Add 1 cup of buttermilk, slowly, as you gently fold with a fork, just until most of the dry ingredients are moistened. </div>
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Turn out on a floured board and VERY gently knead 8-10 Times, just to smooth out dough. Do not over handle dough. </div>
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Pat dough into a round disk about 1” thick and 8” across. Cut into 8 wedges as you would a pizza. Move wedges to the baking sheet leaving about 1” between them. </div>
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Melt 3 tablespoons of salted butter. Add a pinch of extra salt to the melted butter , and using about half of it, brush tops of biscuits. </div>
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Bake for 13-15 minutes until puffed and golden brown. </div>
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Remove from oven and brush with remaining butter. </div>
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Serve immediately.<br />
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Have a warm and Happy Holiday!<br />
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<h4>
<span style="color: cyan;">Steven</span> </h4>
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Stevenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06022843432830788973noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4421689124616272485.post-23723102276507632712017-11-28T15:17:00.000-08:002017-11-29T13:24:15.829-08:00Twilight Garden - Finishing Your Top<h3>
Putting it all together</h3>
Well, If you have been following along, month by month, with me, then you know our patterns have some issues. I was hoping that the final assembly would just go together smoothly, and for the most part it did.<br />
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Like any other sampler quilt, there are always adjustments to be made, and this quilt is no exception. I would like to give you just a fool proof set of instructions for assembling the blocks in this quilt, but I believe whatever cutting dimensions I supply would work for some of you, but not for everyone. I think you have to be open to adding in a little more sashing, or cutting some sashing pieces a little narrower, to make things fit properly.<br />
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My approach was to lay out all my blocks in their approximate locations. The quilt is assembled in 4 rows, and your goal is to make each of those 4 rows the same width, so everything fits properly. <br />
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The first thing I noticed is that one of the three blocks on my bottom row (the Twinkling Stars block) was not as tall as the other two blocks. Not sure why, but it really doesn't matter. I just added another row of the 1" finished scrappy squares to the bottom of the block and that brought it up to the same height as the other two.<br />
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From measuring the width of all the blocks, I gathered that my middle row of blocks was going to be the widest row, so I sewed the blocks in this row together, and used this as my target width for the rest of the rows. The bottom row was narrower than the middle row by about an inch, so I added another row of the scrappy 1" squares onto the right side of the row. Then it matched up nicely. <br />
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The row of piano keys goes above the middle row of blocks. This is an easy row to size. Simply measure the target width of the middle row and sew together that many piano keys. They are each </div>
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1 1/2" by 5 1/2" so each key will finish at 1" wide. For my quilt I used exactly what the pattern says, 39 keys.</div>
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With the bottom 3 rows assembled, all we have to do is adjust the width of the 2 black sashing strips in the top row so it finishes at the same width. For me, I had to cut these sashing strips at 2" x 12 1/2" rather than 2 1/2" wide as the pattern stated. but with this simple change, the top row fit perfectly.</div>
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After sewing all the rows together, it was then a simple matter to add borders. I chose to add a very narrow border of solid black before adding the next border of red. My red border is made exactly per the instructions, using all the leftovers of red fabric from my kit. I then added the outer border using the charcoal stripe fabric with woven stars. I purposely cut this border along the length of the fabric, partly because there is less stretch to your border if cut this way, rather than across the fabric, and also I like the stripe pattern better this way.<br />
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Even with the pattern issues, the majority of this quilt came together with little difficulty. I really do like the way it turned out, especially adding in the very narrow border of black. It frames the center beautifully.<br />
I will be custom quilting this top, as i think it will enhance the quilt a great deal. Unfortunately, I have a fairly long queue of tops to quilt, so I won't be getting to this one for a while. I have selected a print fabric for the backing as I think it will be a little softer than the yarn dyes used in the top. My binding is already cut out and prepared from the same fabric as the outer border.<br />
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Thank you for following along as I constructed the Twilight Garden Quilt. I hope you are as pleased with your version as I am with mine.<br />
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<h4>
<span style="color: cyan;">Steven</span></h4>
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<br />Stevenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06022843432830788973noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4421689124616272485.post-72977178491734013002017-11-03T08:06:00.000-07:002017-11-07T14:53:33.321-08:00Friendship Triangle Exchange<br />
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12.0pt;">Hi Everyone,</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12.0pt;">I would like to propose
that we do a Friendship Triangle Exchange, roughly following the guidelines
layed out by Edyta Sitar in her book <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Friendship-Triangles-Beautiful-Step-step/dp/0981804098/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1509719612&sr=8-1&keywords=friendship+triangles+quilt+book&dpID=61s7boKZ4BL&preST=_SX258_BO1,204,203,200_QL70_&dpSrc=srch" target="_blank">"Friendship Triangles,"published by Landauer.</a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12.0pt;">Please note this
exchange is only for participants with a U.S. mailing address (this includes
Alaska and Hawaii).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I am sorry for
those outside of the U.S., but shipping cost makes it prohibitive. </span></div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5tF3LHq_Eso/Wfx5YEO_BAI/AAAAAAAAAk8/cZV9DwKxHvEOKIy1B3_jk3WtJmb3LQVxwCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_3951.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="200" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5tF3LHq_Eso/Wfx5YEO_BAI/AAAAAAAAAk8/cZV9DwKxHvEOKIy1B3_jk3WtJmb3LQVxwCEwYBhgL/s200/IMG_3951.JPG" width="200" /></a><span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12.0pt;">The idea is to trade
half square triangle units, made using triangle paper for accuracy. These are
easy to make in groups of 20 or so at a time, all from the same 2 fabrics (1
dark and 1 light). Then we will trade,<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>and I will return to you a wonderful scrappy mix of HST units made from
a huge variety of fabrics. You can use new fabrics purchased for the exchange,
or, better yet, use up some fabrics from your stash. We all have different
tastes in fabrics, and so I am going to set color guidelines for this exchange
to be "Country Colors".<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This
is meant to be fairly broad, and should include any color in the color wheel,
but not brights.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Country Colors can be
rich and saturated, or softer in shades. They are not bright jewel tones, and
they are not sparkling fabrics overlaid with silver and gold, just a nice blend
of colors that you would see on the couch in a country home. Avoid novelty
prints (unless they read strongly as a single color). 1800's repros, old
Thimbleberries or fabrics from designers such as Edyta Sitar or Kim Diehl fall
nicely into this color range. You can include prints, solids, homespuns and
batik.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Just about anything as long as
it is 100% cotton quilting weight fabric, and falls into the color guidelines.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If you do not care for the colors in this
exchange, I am sorry, but I can only handle one exchange at a time.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Perhaps sit this one out, and if the
exchange is a great success, we will repeat the exchange and go with a brighter
color palette the next time around.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12.0pt;">We will exchange these half
square triangle units to increase our color and fabric variety, and most
importantly, to have a little bit of each other's fabrics in scrap quilts that
we will make at the end of the exchange. It will be fun and should not be that
time consuming.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A word about fabric
quality.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>all would like to make quilts from good quality fabric. I am not
going to police this exchange to make sure everyone is using quilt shop quality
fabric. The point of this exchange is to have fun. I know some of you do not
live extremely close to a quilt shop, but wherever you acquire the fabrics used
in this exchange, be sure you are using good quality fabrics that you would be
proud to use in your own quilts. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12.0pt;">The rules for the
exchange are as follows:</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12.0pt;">1. Half Square Triangle
(HST) units must be sewn using triangle paper made for these units. The size of
the units will be 2" finished.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Make sure the paper clearly is marked for 2" finished half square
triangles (not Quarter Square Triangles).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>You can use any brand of papers that you like. Some examples are
Triangles on a Roll, Thangles, <a href="http://laundrybasketquilts.com/online-shop.html#!/2-Finished-Triangle-Paper-6-x-21-fabric/p/34455132/category=8807313&forcescroll=true" target="_blank">Triangle Exchange Papers from Laundry BasketQuilts</a>, or other similar papers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>You
can also print your own triangle papers from CD masters made for this purpose,
however, if you choose to print them on your printer, you MUST use paper made
for paper foundation piecing, not standard printer paper.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This assures that the paper will tear away
easily.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12.0pt;">2. We will exchange in
groups of 40 HST units for ease of keeping track of numbers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Whatever number of HST units you send in,
that is how many you will get back. You can sew them in groups of 10 or 20, or
any number that works for you.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>However,
I do ask that you don't make any more than 20 units from the same two
fabrics.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Switch it out so we have greater
variety of fabrics in the exchange. If you are using up smaller scraps, you may
be making them in smaller groups, but we will still exchange them in groups of
40.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12.0pt;">3. For those of you who
have not made HST's using triangle paper, please review the technique, either
in Edyta Sitar's book (mentioned above), or watch an instructional video on
Youtube before you get started. You will want to layer your fabrics with the
dark fabric right side up, then the light fabric on top of that, right side
down, then the triangle paper on top of that, printed side up.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This order is important so that when they
are opened and pressed, the seam will be pressed in the direction of the dark
fabric. Sew on all the dotted lines, then cut them on all the solid lines using
a rotary cutter and ruler. When sewing triangles using triangle paper, reduce
your stitch length from a normal 8-10 stitches per inch ( 2.5 to 3.1mm), down to about 16-18
stitches per inch (1.4 to 1.6mm). This will make tearing the paper off much easier.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Be very careful when sewing and cutting,
accuracy is important. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12.0pt;">4. IMPORTANT!! Once the
units are cut apart, do not remove the paper! and do not open and press
them!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We will be exchanging them at
this point. They are protected from stretching with the paper still on them.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Just count out 40 and put them in sandwich
size ziplock bags to be sent off for the exchange. The recipient will press
them open and remove the paper (hence the reason to reduce your stitch length
when you sew them, and to use a good quality, easy tear triangle paper).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It's like a little surprise each time you
open and press a unit to see the fabrics you have received in the exchange. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12.0pt;">5. Select a light and a
dark pair of fabrics for each set of HST units you make. The lights can be
creams, beiges, tans, or any pale light color that looks good as a neutral
scrappy background. Avoid pure whites. Lights can have print patterns, but
nothing too distracting. (example - shirting prints are ok,<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>small calico prints are ok, large/bold checkerboard
prints, not so good). Make sure your matching dark fabric has good contrast
with the light you choose. The darks can be medium to dark value as long as
there is good contrast. Think about using a mix of colors and scales of prints
for variety.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12.0pt;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12.0pt;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12.0pt;">6. You can choose to
exchange as many units as you wish. They must be packaged in groups of 40 in
sandwich ziplock bags. So you can do 40, 80, 120 . . . etc.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is good to look through some patterns
that use 2" finished HST units so you have some idea of how many you will
need to make a quilt. Great patterns that use a lot of HST units include Broken
Dishes, Tree of Life, Ocean Waves, and many others.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Whatever number you turn in is what you will get back.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We will open your ziplocks, count them to
make sure your bags contain 40, then sort them, so every bag will be a mix of
units from everyone. The members of my small quilt group have volunteered to
help sort, package and return ship units to all the participants.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-oDgYYCIrJs4/Wfx5XyiXnWI/AAAAAAAAAlM/tYI3_ugeMdM2EMjwwwgfxma5VuNCnDPeQCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_3941.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-oDgYYCIrJs4/Wfx5XyiXnWI/AAAAAAAAAlM/tYI3_ugeMdM2EMjwwwgfxma5VuNCnDPeQCEwYBhgL/s320/IMG_3941.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jamestown Landing by Bonnie Hunter</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vd3H8jwPLRQ/Wfx5ZivE82I/AAAAAAAAAlM/xqIlaLmbH_wZbA6ShIAzVW5WyXTKPVbngCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_3954.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="750" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vd3H8jwPLRQ/Wfx5ZivE82I/AAAAAAAAAlM/xqIlaLmbH_wZbA6ShIAzVW5WyXTKPVbngCEwYBhgL/s320/IMG_3954.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Broken Dishes</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qDpTRB0GSFs/Wfx5Xm4aICI/AAAAAAAAAlM/RKlpq3ggCy4mjv7XspFoMJtbTNMB_xiaQCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_3216.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qDpTRB0GSFs/Wfx5Xm4aICI/AAAAAAAAAlM/RKlpq3ggCy4mjv7XspFoMJtbTNMB_xiaQCEwYBhgL/s320/IMG_3216.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tree Of Life</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Bll4UnWkVKw/Wfx5Yq2zlEI/AAAAAAAAAlM/KHWx5vj0gV0jjj8QOIJwSSvLfJXP3YoNACEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_3952.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Bll4UnWkVKw/Wfx5Yq2zlEI/AAAAAAAAAlM/KHWx5vj0gV0jjj8QOIJwSSvLfJXP3YoNACEwYBhgL/s320/IMG_3952.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ocean Waves</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SK59PahtBwo/Wfx5ZGcjsLI/AAAAAAAAAlM/etBKV1imHiUsZ6kozQ49ekkyioW6uAY7QCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_3953.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1094" data-original-width="735" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SK59PahtBwo/Wfx5ZGcjsLI/AAAAAAAAAlM/etBKV1imHiUsZ6kozQ49ekkyioW6uAY7QCEwYBhgL/s320/IMG_3953.JPG" width="214" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tree Of Life</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vW2JR8nRsh8/Wfx5Xqy-IEI/AAAAAAAAAlM/1ion5_Axls876IHOSz0xB9NZlwE2ikrEgCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_1846.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="634" data-original-width="383" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vW2JR8nRsh8/Wfx5Xqy-IEI/AAAAAAAAAlM/1ion5_Axls876IHOSz0xB9NZlwE2ikrEgCEwYBhgL/s320/IMG_1846.JPG" width="193" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jamestown Landing</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; margin-bottom: 10.0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12.0pt;">7. You can send your HST
units to me using whatever courier you would like to use.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I will be returning them ALL to you via the
USPS in padded flat rate envelopes, as these will hold a lot, and they are
economical to send.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>You will need to
include $7.50 return postage along with your exchange units. This can be cash
or a check made out to me, Steven Lennert (I suggest putting this in another
ziplock bag with your name on it, and tucking this in to your shipment). A
padded flat rate envelope will hold around 12 to 14 bags (each 40 units), or a
total of 480-560 HST units.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If you will
be sending in more units than that, that is fine, but you will need to send $15
return postage to allow for either two envelopes or a medium flat rate box.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12.0pt;"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12.0pt;">8. With the Holidays
coming up, I would like to give everyone plenty of time to make their units, so
I am setting January 31, 2018 as the date that all exchange units should be
mailed in. Please do not mail them before January 15th, as I do not have space
to store them. We will then work on them during February and should have them
returned to everyone sometime in March.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Exchange blocks received after February 7th, 2018 will not be included
in the exchange and will simply be returned to the participant. NO EXCEPTIONS!
Exchange units can be sent to: Steven Lennert, 11237 SE Vernazza Ln., Happy
Valley, OR 97086</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; margin-bottom: 10.0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12.0pt;">9. For the sake of
variety, I would like to have at least 30 participants in this exchange. Please
share this with your quilting friends who may want to participate.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I am setting a limit of 100 participants, as
I think that is all my small quilt group can comfortably handle in the
exchange. So sign up soon if you would like to join in.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; margin-bottom: 10.0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12.0pt;">If you have read through
these instructions and you would like to participate in the exchange, please
send me an email stating you would like to participate in the HST exchange,<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>to oneworldfabrics@yahoo.com,<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>and include the following information: Your
full name, your email address where you can be reached (please include this
even if your email was sent from this address), and a telephone number where
you can be reached if we have any questions (This is REQUIRED), and your
mailing address for return of your exchange units (in case you forget to
include this when you send your units in).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I will not share any of this information with anyone, it is just for us
to contact you if necessary. I will send out a confirmation email to all who
have signed up around December 1st. (please notify me if you should be signed
up and do not get a confirmation email). And, I will also send out a reminder
email in mid-January about the deadline for mailing in your exchange
units.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; margin-bottom: 10.0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12.0pt;">If you have any other
questions, please email me at oneworldfabrics@yahoo.com</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; margin-bottom: 10.0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12.0pt;">Thanks,</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; margin-bottom: 10.0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 12.0pt;">Steven</span></div>
Stevenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06022843432830788973noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4421689124616272485.post-80332822798550354492017-10-04T10:38:00.000-07:002017-10-04T10:38:11.835-07:00Block 10 - Twinkling Stars I have to begin this month by apologizing up front for the difficulty in cutting the pieces out for the the Twinkling Stars block.<br />
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Just about all blocks can be simplified to a grid. Usually 3 x 3, 4 x 4, or 5 x 5. To give you an example, a 9 patch is a basic 3 x 3 grid.<br />
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A friendship star is also a 3 x 3 grid, and similar to a 9 patch, except 4 of the squares are replaced with half square triangles. Our block this month has 8 friendship stars positioned in a wreath. The block width spans 3 of these friendship stars, left to right and top to bottom. So the grid for our block this month is 9 x 9. <br />
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The block has a lot of pieces, and that would not be so bad, except the block finishes at 12". So the issue is that 12 is not divisible by 9 evenly. Each block in our grid must finish at 1 1/3", which makes the math difficult, and any cutting we do with standard rotary cutter and rulers with be just an approximation of the correct dimensions. Our rulers are divided into neat half, quarter, and eighth inch segments, so when cutting out your pieces this month, be aware that I am going to suggest cutting at dimensions that fall in between your normal measuring lines.<br />
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The cutting directions supplied in the pattern are close in some cases, and way off in others, so I suggest you ignore the cutting directions and follow mine instead.<br />
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When I say, cut your square at just shy of 2 1/4" x 2 1/4", I mean measure 2 1/4" on your ruler, then slide the ruler slightly, so that you are cutting perhaps 1/16 of an inch less than 2 1/4". There are several dimensions that require this. Just aim for halfway between your 1/8" lines on the ruler. I know this is a bit of a pain, and for those of you who are incredibly precise, you might find this a little unnerving, but trust me, it will come out way more accurately, than following the cutting directions in the pattern.<br />
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<h3>
Fabric Choices</h3>
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I am again using solid black as my background for this block. You should select 8 other fabrics for your friendship stars. Each should contrast nicely with the black. Although I did pick one fabric with a small + pattern in the weave, I avoided really busy, large scale patterned fabrics and plaids. This is my personal preference, as I wanted each of these stars to show very clearly, and not have a lot of distraction from pattern in the fabric. <br />
I also chose several different colors and values from a light golden tan, to a medium dark charcoal (still contrasting with the black background). I used 2 reds, a green, a tan, a brown, and one of teal blues. The original quilt only had these teal blues in the Tulip and basket blocks, but I love these colors and so I decided to throw one in this block as well.<br />
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<h3>
Cutting</h3>
From the black background cut:<br />
<br />
A- (16) 2 1/4" shy squares. (Note when I say shy, your actual cutting dimensions should be reduced by approx. 1/16"). Cut all of these squares in half once on the diagonal yielding 32 HST pieces. <br />
<br />
D- (4) 1 7/8" shy squares. <br />
<br />
E- (1) 4 1/2" square (Note this cutting measurement is exactly 4 1/2").<br />
<br />
F- (4) Rectangles 5 7/8" shy x 1 7/8" shy<br />
<br />
G- (4) Rectangles 4 1/2" (exact) x 1 7/8" shy<br />
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From each of your 8 friendship star fabrics cut:<br />
<br />
B- (2) 2 1/4" shy squares. Cut each of these squares in half once on the diagonal yielding 4 HST pieces.<br />
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C- (1) 1 7/8" shy square<br />
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<h3>
Assembly</h3>
I would like to stress that your 1/4" seam allowance is pretty critical in this block. If in doubt, test your seam allowance first, before sewing your pieces together. If you are a bit off from a 1/4", it is better to err on the small side (i.e. a scant 1/4" rather than a generous 1/4").<br />
<br />
Begin by matching one black triangle to one friendship star triangle, right sides together, and sew them on the long diagonal. Press the seam allowance to the black, and make sure to open the seam fully. Clip dog ears off. Repeat with all the triangle friendship star fabrics, matching each with a black triangle.<br />
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Organize your friendship star colors by making little piles of 4 HST units and one square on top from each color.<br />
<br />
Then begin laying out your block. Follow the diagram in your pattern to arrange the friendship stars in a wreath with the large black square (E) in the center. Double check your layout to make sure all of your HST's are facing the right way. It is very easy to position these incorrectly. Note that four of the stars are spinning to the right and four are spinning to the left.<br />
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Your block layout should look something like the photo to the right. Remember that not all the pieces will line up evenly spaced at this point, because you have lots of seam allowances that will be lost when you begin sewing your units together.<br />
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I begin by sewing each side unit together. These include two black rectangles and one HST unit in the center. There is a side unit for each of the 4 sides of the block. Then begin pairing squares and sewing them together.<br />
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<br />
Here, on each end, I have sewn a line of pairs together and joined them to a side unit (A + G's).<br />
Then 3 pairs on each side of the center square (E).<br />
When you join the 3 center segments, all that remains is to add the two final side units (A + F's) to each end.<br />
<br />
As you are sewing pairs of small grid squares together, press seam allowances in alternate directions, so the pairs join to each other easily. When you add the side units, I pressed the seam allowance toward the side unit. When joining the two groups of six grid squares to the center black square, I pressed seam allowances toward the center square. When I joined the 3 large center sections, I pressed the seam allowance open, as there were lots of cross seams coming into this seam, and I felt it would lay flatter if pressed open.<br />
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The finished block should measure 12 1/2" square. Mine was actually just a touch under that measurement, but very close. Sewing with a scant 1/4 seam allowance would probably help with this. <br />
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This was a most challenging block. Partly because the designer chose a very difficult grid measurement, and partly because there are just so many pieces in this block. <br />
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We are now at the point where we have completed all the blocks for the quilt. The next two months I will focus on the sashing elements to bring all the blocks together into a quilt top, and then a little bit about quilting and finishing the quilt.<br />
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Give yourself a pat on the back for finishing your blocks. Have a glass of wine and celebrate your accomplishment, and I will be back next month with some sashing tips.<br />
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<h4>
<span style="color: cyan;">Steven</span></h4>
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<br />Stevenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06022843432830788973noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4421689124616272485.post-18433608991694925162017-09-04T14:40:00.000-07:002017-09-04T14:40:47.305-07:00Twilight Garden - Block 9 Flower Baskets<h3>
Attention - Pattern Corrections</h3>
I am sad to say that again we have pattern corrections this month, and these are very important cutting measurement corrections.<br />
<br />
First, I am a little confused, as my copy of the pattern has 3 almost identical pages with instructions for the flower baskets. In my pattern, they are pages 17, 18, and 19. I have no idea why these are all in there. All have the same dimensional cutting errors, so it isn't like there is an older version and then a corrected version. If you have multiple pages with pattern instructions for the flower baskets, check at the top of the page where it says "Approximate size" meaning the finished size of the block. 2 of my pages say 12", which is wrong. One of my pages says 6", which is the correct finished size of the basket block. Keep this one, and you can discard the others.<br />
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Under cutting instructions<br />
From a dark background fabric:<br />
<br />
1st line should read:<br />
A Cut one square 2 1/4". Cut in half once diagonally to make two half square triangles.<br />
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From a Contrasting fabric<br />
<br />
1st line should read:<br />
D Cut one square 1 7/8" x 1 7/8"<br />
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From Basket Fabric One:<br />
<br />
1st line should read:<br />
E Cut two squares 1 7/8" x 1 7/8"<br />
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From Basket Fabric Two:<br />
<br />
2nd line should read:<br />
J Cut one square 1 7/8" x 1 7/8"<br />
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Under Block Assembly<br />
Making Flying Geese Units<br />
<br />
1st sentence should read:<br />
Pair up half-square triangle A with half-square triangle units D and E. <br />
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Please be aware that when cutting out your pieces, the directions are for cutting the amount necessary to make one 6" finished block, and you will need three blocks for the quilt. It is suggested that you make each of the three blocks scrappy out of different fabrics, but you might want to consider cutting the pieces out for all three blocks at once to save time.<br />
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Basket Blocks</h3>
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These blocks are suppose to be scrappy, like the rest of the quilt, so I am picking quite a few fabrics this month. I am using a blue fabric for the top of each basket, a different blue for each block. Then the baskets themselves I am using an assortment of reds, tans, grays, browns, plaids, etc. For all three backgrounds I am using black, however it might be a nice variation to try using black for one, and a dark charcoal for one, and perhaps even a dark brown for one. The setting triangles around the outside of each block are dark grays for the top and bottom blocks, and I am choosing a light tan for the setting triangles on the middle block.<br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FbirxE6GhKQ/Wa2-5zL0mmI/AAAAAAAAAj8/ohN-G3K-1o8B3R85KJlQBC21WRwCYBvvQCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_3486.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FbirxE6GhKQ/Wa2-5zL0mmI/AAAAAAAAAj8/ohN-G3K-1o8B3R85KJlQBC21WRwCYBvvQCEwYBhgL/s320/IMG_3486.JPG" width="240" /></a>After cutting out your pieces, you can follow the basic directions under block assembly. Make your sub units so you have them all ready - The half square triangle squares, and the flying geese. Then you can lay them out as shown at the left. Be sure when you are making the flying geese to make a right handed and left handed one (i.e. watch your fabric placement). <br />
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KA2k5oJ1_MA/Wa2-641KhCI/AAAAAAAAAj8/5lmkXYeu6hg6ab10vWnjKjkm4RBD6V2xgCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_3487.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KA2k5oJ1_MA/Wa2-641KhCI/AAAAAAAAAj8/5lmkXYeu6hg6ab10vWnjKjkm4RBD6V2xgCEwYBhgL/s320/IMG_3487.JPG" width="240" /></a>You will be sewing all these units together. The bottom 4 can be sewn into a 4-patch, then added to one of the flying geese units. The second flying geese unit can be sewn to the upper background square.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-t_SCo2sFQVY/Wa2-7ULU2eI/AAAAAAAAAj8/BjqG30oNPUoYXZdmMfyI5vE_G9joCKmCQCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_3488.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-t_SCo2sFQVY/Wa2-7ULU2eI/AAAAAAAAAj8/BjqG30oNPUoYXZdmMfyI5vE_G9joCKmCQCEwYBhgL/s320/IMG_3488.JPG" width="240" /></a>I pressed one of the interim seams open to reduce bulk. Flying geese always present a dilemma as to pressing direction for the seams. They have a point coming into the center of an adjacent seam, and always seem to produce a fair amount of bulk, and so, opening these seams and distributing this bulk helps make your finished blocks lay flat.<br />
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You will then need to sew the bottoms of the baskets on (left and right sides and the bottom triangle. These seams can be pressed toward the outside of the block.<br />
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The last assembly step is to add the setting triangles to all 4 sides of the block, making the baskets upright on point. Do this by folding your block and the long side of each setting triangle in half to find the center. Align these centers and sew the triangles to the side of the block. <br />
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The setting triangles will be a little oversized to allow your blocks to be trimmed down to size. To do this, the easiest way is to use a 6 1/2" square ruler and center the diagonal lines on the ruler with the actual seam lines in the center of your basket. (Note the criss cross diagonal lines cross right in the center of the basket design). This should give you at least 1/4" seam allowance on all sides beyond the darker block background points. Trim the excess away, and then sew your blocks top to bottom to make a tower of 3 baskets, one on top of another.<br />
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Sorry for all the corrections to the pattern every month. I have been notifying the pattern designer, so she can make corrections on future printings.<br />
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Our next block is the circle of friendship stars, really a fun and beautiful block. Until next month, happy sewing.<br />
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<h4>
<span style="color: cyan;">Steven</span></h4>
Stevenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06022843432830788973noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4421689124616272485.post-24884931397662921102017-08-18T12:01:00.000-07:002017-08-18T12:01:09.347-07:00Crazy Log Cabins - Block 8 The Crazy Log Cabin blocks for Twilight Garden can be paper pieced, or if you choose, you can make templates from the diagram on page 15. If you choose to make templates be sure to add a 1/4" seam allowance to your templates before cutting your fabrics.<br />
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If you are opting to do the foundation paper piecing method (by far the easiest method), you can follow along with me, as this is the method I have chosen to do.<br />
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<h3>
Fabrics</h3>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/--NeYuOHjQ-A/WZclcoR_XGI/AAAAAAAAAhw/pp44Dp8Km0omSQF2PSl4xc9_f3lFwhrcQCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_3455.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/--NeYuOHjQ-A/WZclcoR_XGI/AAAAAAAAAhw/pp44Dp8Km0omSQF2PSl4xc9_f3lFwhrcQCEwYBhgL/s320/IMG_3455.JPG" width="320" /></a> For these blocks I have chosen a wide variety of fabrics. Honestly, just about any of the fabrics in the kit will work well for these blocks. They are very scrappy and I would pick out some lights, darks and mediums, and also some fabrics with pattern, just because they add a lot of visual interest. <br />
Each block will have a different sequence of fabrics, and, if you want, you can use many more fabrics than I have selected. I avoided any of the blue fabrics, as I thought that would take away from the tulips, and also avoided the very light cream used in the day lily flowers, for the same reason. I did include some reds, greens, browns, golden tan, and grays.<br />
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<h3>
Supplies</h3>
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First a word about foundation paper. If you have experimented with papers for foundation piecing, you probably have your favorite that you use all the time. For me, this is the paper from That Patchwork Place. It is not expensive, and comes in large reams of 100 sheets. The reason I like this paper is that it tears away easily. There are several brands of vellum paper on the market that are touted as easy tear, but I find that all vellum is too robust for paper piecing. For me, the lighter the paper the better. I do like the crispness of vellum, and it makes a sharp fold, but I have never found one that tears away easily. Vellum always rips out some of my stitches, regardless of how small I make my stitch length.<br />
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ux5_GIjOPDI/WZcldTcPwHI/AAAAAAAAAjI/4WfkUVJAb3YOouNqK4HBIngpmstYGsXLwCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_3456.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ux5_GIjOPDI/WZcldTcPwHI/AAAAAAAAAjI/4WfkUVJAb3YOouNqK4HBIngpmstYGsXLwCEwYBhgL/s200/IMG_3456.JPG" width="150" /></a>The paper pictured at left works very well, and runs easily through my computer printer.<br />
Make sure when you are copying foundation patterns that you have your printer set on 100% scale, or "actual size". <br />
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oeDT8-ovg9w/WZclf3s6HNI/AAAAAAAAAjI/bm2bFYbcKwAU6k_xnbTxjU4N9NyMCdgmwCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_3461.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oeDT8-ovg9w/WZclf3s6HNI/AAAAAAAAAjI/bm2bFYbcKwAU6k_xnbTxjU4N9NyMCdgmwCEwYBhgL/s200/IMG_3461.JPG" width="150" /></a>Even with that, some printers are not accurate to size. Be sure to measure your first copy against the original and only continue copying all your foundations when the copies match the original size perfectly.<br />
A very handy tool to use when paper piecing is the Add-A-Quarter ruler. It is not required, but will make trimming excess fabrics away very quick. It comes in a 6" and also a 12" length. The 6" version is adequate to do these blocks, but the 12" is a more versatile size. Here it is pictured butted up against the fold of the foundation paper. The 1/4" lip on the bottom of this ruler assures you are trimming to exactly a 1/4" seam allowance.<br />
You will also need a small rotary cutter, and a small cutting mat to have at your work station. It also is a time saver if you have a small ironing pad and iron right at your station as well. Paper piecing requires that you press after each fabric addition, so if you iron is a distance from you work space, you will be traveling a bit.<br />
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<h3>
Corrections</h3>
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There are some minor errors in the numbering of the the foundation pattern. Not a biggy, but you might want to correct these numbers so you don't get confused as to the order you add the fabrics to the block. Note in the photo, I have crossed out and re-numbered a few spaces on the pattern. Please make these corrections before you copy your foundations. Newer versions of the pattern may already have these corrections, so double check just to be sure.<br />
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A word about cutting out your fabric pieces on the straight of grain. The pattern author stresses that this is very important, and she does provide a block diagram in the pattern with grain lines clearly marked. If you wish to take the time to cut your pieces out with correct grain direction it will ultimately make the block more stable and less stretchy around the outside edges. However, I personally do not bother with this. I find as long as you use reasonable care when handling your pieces and particularly while pressing, you will have no problems assembling these blocks, or sewing them into the quilt. If you are really concerned about stability, you can always leave the foundation on the block until it is securely sewn into the quilt, then remove the paper. <br />
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<h3>
Assembly</h3>
I will not go into great detail about the process of paper piecing, as it is covered extremely well in many books that focus on this technique. I will tell you a few hints to make your work easier.<br />
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First, sit next to a window, or have a light box handy so you can see your fabrics through the foundation paper to get proper alignment. Second, if you are worried about your fabrics slipping while flipping over the foundation pattern and sewing. Use a pin to hold the fabric to the foundation. Just make sure your pin does not cross the sew line you will be sewing on. And Third, reduce the stitch length on your sewing machine so you are sewing about 15 stitches per inch or more. This will help perforate the paper and make tearing away your pattern much easier.<br />
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Begin by placing your 1 and 2 fabrics right sides together and place them on the back of the pattern with the 1 piece wrong side to the paper. Align them so their common edges overhang the sew line between 1 and 2 by at least 1/4". Pin these in place, flip the pattern so the printed side is up and sew on the line between 1 and 2, beginning your stitching a little before the line starts and continue your stitching a little past the end of the line. Clip threads and remove from the machine. <br />
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With the printed side up, fold the pattern back on the line you just sewed. and trim the seam allowance to no more than 1/4". The Add-A-Quarter ruler comes in handy for this. With the fabrics on top, flip piece 2 and press.<br />
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IGG_iJo6cEA/WZclh2OtfQI/AAAAAAAAAjI/RNm0aswmN90HtgmWJIzOQ9u1LPE45HUHQCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_3465.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IGG_iJo6cEA/WZclh2OtfQI/AAAAAAAAAjI/RNm0aswmN90HtgmWJIzOQ9u1LPE45HUHQCEwYBhgL/s320/IMG_3465.JPG" width="240" /></a>Add each new piece in numbered order, making sure to align each piece, pin if necessary, sew on the common line between the two fabrics, then fold and trim. Very quickly you will get the hang of it, and most people really enjoy the process.<br />
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The pieces of fabric can be much larger than you actually need.<br />
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Just so long as once they are sewn in and flipped into position, they have to completely cover their numbered area on the pattern, plus have at least 1/4" seam allowance all around. <br />
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Once all the fabrics are added, the block will be trimmed on this dotted line and that space along the outside edge is your seam allowance to sew you blocks to the adjacent blocks in the quilt.<br />
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You will be making 4 of these blocks, then they will be sewn together in line. Once you have your row of Crazy Log Cabin blocks, they can be sewn onto the bottom of the Day Lily block from last month.<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-n_gjy7Ybw48/WZclkdOx8-I/AAAAAAAAAjI/eKty1nCUrpU8ZqfjRCG-fXyijeP5GB75wCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_3475.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-n_gjy7Ybw48/WZclkdOx8-I/AAAAAAAAAjI/eKty1nCUrpU8ZqfjRCG-fXyijeP5GB75wCEwYBhgL/s320/IMG_3475.JPG" width="240" /></a>We will then need to sew together chains of 1 1/2" scrappy squares (using lots of fabrics from your kits). We will need one single chain of 16 squares to go along the top of the Day Lily block, and a double chain of 2 squares wide by 13 squares long, which will be added to a 2 1/2" x 4 1/2" rectangle and sewn onto the left side of the block as in the diagram on page 16 of your pattern. This is a great way of using up your leftover 1 1/2" squares from the Picnic Block.<br />
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We will be making more of these sashing filler strips as we begin assembling the quilt top, so don't worry about cutting out a few extra of all the little squares. We will also be making one large piano key strip set (scrappy) from lots of 1 1/2" x 5 1/2" strips of all these same fabrics. So if you have some 1 1/2" strips cut out, cut some 5 1/2" segments as well as your squares. You will eventually need 39 of these rectangles.<br />
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Our block next month is the basket blocks. <u><b>Just a warning, there are some rather important corrections for the cutting directions for these blocks</b></u>. I might suggest you wait for my article in September, with corrections before cutting, or, make some sample blocks with scrap fabrics so you can make adjustments before cutting your kit fabrics.<br />
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Thanks for following along!<br />
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Happy Sewing<br />
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<span style="color: cyan;">Steven</span></h4>
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<br />Stevenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06022843432830788973noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4421689124616272485.post-90745851683915757912017-08-15T19:15:00.000-07:002017-08-16T09:53:03.383-07:00Where Do I Buy These Fabrics??<h3>
Taupes</h3>
Even before I closed the One World Fabrics website, I had numerous emails from customers who were worried they would not be able to find continuing sources for Japanese Taupe fabrics. It is difficult to find them unless you are buying directly from retailers in Japan. I know this. That is one of the reasons I created One World Fabrics several years ago, as I saw a real need for a store that would bring all these fabrics to the Western market.<br />
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Fortunately for you, there are a few other sources in the U.S. and Canada, and during the time I was running the business, a few other people opened stores in competition with me, carrying some of the fabric lines I did.<br />
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What follows is a list of retailers who sell Japanese Taupe fabrics. Some are walk in stores that have a website where you can order some or all of their offerings, some are Etsy stores. There are also a few in other countries that I have found by doing internet searches. You might find more than my list here, and I am sure there will be more stores that will carry these fabrics in the future. The number of people using Taupe fabrics, and decorating with this color palette is growing every day.<br />
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These are in order of my personal favorites. Some specialize more in general Japanese fabrics and Sashiko supplies.<br />
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1. Quilted Threads in Henniker, New Hampshire (<a href="http://www.quiltedthreads.com/" target="_blank">http://www.quiltedthreads.com</a>) - For a walk in store, QT has one of the very best selections of real, authentic Japanese Taupe fabrics, and has an especially good selection of yarn dyed wovens. If you have a chance to visit the store in person, do so. You will be pleasantly surprised with lots of Taupe samples, Sashiko samples, and a very friendly staff. They also offer a Taupe fabric club online, and several Taupe BOM programs.<br />
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2. Kallisti Quilts in Waterloo, Ontario, Canada (<a href="http://www.kallistiquilts.com/" target="_blank">http://www.kallistiquilts.com</a>) - Michelle has been carrying Taupe fabrics for quite some time. Originally just an Etsy shop, she now has a new website. She also carries a few batiks and other imported fabrics.<br />
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3. Willow Lane Quilting Company, Seattle, Washington (<a href="http://www.willowlanequiltingcompany.com/" target="_blank">http://www.willowlanequiltingcompany.com</a>) - This store is run by Priscilla Knoble who many of you know as the owner of Stitch Publications. Priscilla has a passion for Taupe fabrics and carries not only a very good selection of fabrics, but also a wonderful assortment of notions that are regularly used by quilters in Japan.<br />
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4. Quilting Foxes in Mt. Vernon, Washington (<a href="http://www.quiltingfoxes.com/" target="_blank">http://www.quiltingfoxes.com</a>) - Also originally an Etsy store, they have a new website that offers Taupe and other Japanese fabrics, and Sashiko supplies.<br />
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5. Kimonomomo in Alameda, California (<a href="http://www.etsy.com/shop/kimonomomo" target="_blank">http://www.etsy.com/shop/kimonomomo</a>) - This is an Etsy shop and is not focused on Taupe per se. They carry a wide assortment of Japanese fabrics and also Sashiko supplies. They do have a good selection of indigo prints, and kimono silks.<br />
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6. Shibori Dragon in University Place, Washington (<a href="https://shiboridragon.com/" target="_blank">https://shiboridragon.com</a><a href="https://shiboridragon.com/">/</a>) - A large store carrying a nice selection of Taupe prints and some yarn dyes. Lots of other Asian fabrics, and an excellent selection of Sashiko supplies.<br />
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7. Holly and Ivy in Ripon, Wisconson (<a href="http://www.etsy.com/shop/fromhollyandivy" target="_blank">http://www.etsy.com/shop/fromhollyandivy</a>) - This shop is closing their walk in store and going strictly to Etsy at the end of Summer. They currently have some sales going. They carry a few Daiwabo fabrics, but mostly reproductions, wool, and a bit of perle cotton.<br />
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This next shop I almost did not include, because it has been difficult to order from, however, they now are handling their orders through a brokerage business in Japan that handles shipping of orders. I have ordered from them with delivery to Oregon with no problems.<br />
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8. Quilt Party in Japan (<a href="https://global.rakuten.com/en/store/quiltparty/" target="_blank">https://global.rakuten.com/en/store/quiltparty/</a>) - This is the store owned and run by Yoko Saito. I was fortunate enough to visit this shop in person while visiting Japan in 2014, and there really is no better source for Taupes. The shop carries all of Yoko Saito's fabrics, but also beautiful Taupe fabrics from many other designers. The shipping is a little expensive, and time consuming, but for the true fan of Taupe fabrics, you will find a great selection here.<br />
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And, finally, this last shop is out of the U.S. and I have not ordered from them. I found them through internet searches and links off of Pinterest. You should do a little more digging for information on them before trying to order.<br />
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9. Quilt House Russia in Moscow (<a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/QuiltHouseRussia" target="_blank">https://www.etsy.com/shop/QuiltHouseRussia</a>) - Seems to have a beautiful selection of Taupe fabrics, particularly yarn dyes. Many I have never seen. Intriguing.<br />
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Good luck in your search for beautiful fabrics!</h3>
Please, when you shop at any of the above shops, mention that you were referred by Steven Lennert from One World Fabrics, and that you heard about their shop through my blog.<br />
I hope you will continue to follow my blog, as I do plan to share some of my projects and continued fun things to do with Taupe fabrics. Most of these last few months has been spent on completing the Twilight Garden BOM, but I will also have articles sharing many other projects in the future.<br />
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Happy sewing to everyone.<br />
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<h4>
<span style="color: cyan;">Steven</span></h4>
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Stevenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06022843432830788973noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4421689124616272485.post-44390484038144111892017-07-11T14:44:00.001-07:002017-07-11T14:44:33.802-07:00Block 7 - Lillies<h3>
Applique</h3>
As with any applique project, there are numerous ways of doing the applique. Block 7 can be done with needle turn applique, turned machine applique, or fused. The flower shapes on this one are a bit challenging for needleturn, although that is the method I have used. I believe the pattern designer chose to fuse her flowers and then do a decorative hand blanket stitch around the edges. This gives a little more folk art look to the block.<br />
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Fabric Selection</h3>
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There is one fabric included in the kit which is specifically for the flowers in this block. It is the lightest cream fabric, included with your Dedicated Fabrics bundle. For those selecting their own fabrics, choose a fabric here that does stand out. This block is really beautiful and you do want your flowers to be a focal point.<br />
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The background I chose for this block is black, as are most of the blocks, and for the stems and leaves I chose a brown hombre plaid. I love the look of the hombre value changes along the flower stems and it gives the leaves a bit of variation so they all look a little different. This fabric also shows up well on the black background, but does not compete with the flowers.<br />
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For the centers of the flowers I chose a soft, small scale plaid that is actually a green/gray color with accent threads in both blue and cream. The very small scale of the plaid gives the look of a check in the center of the flowers.<br />
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A note of caution however, the fabric I chose to use for the centers is really soft and has very little body. I was very concerned that I would not be able to create the crisp round shape I wanted to with this fabric, so I fused a Pellon featherweight interfacing (#906F) to the back side of this fabric before cutting out my circles. This stabilized the fabric and totally prevented any stretching. It is a technique that I have used frequently on lightweight or stretchy fabrics, such as Japanese Kimono Silk, to allow me to cut and piece them along with my standard quilting cottons. Try it, you will like it.<br />
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Assembly of the Block</h3>
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You will need to copy your applique pattern pages (2) and tape them together to make the complete design. I like to use a light box to trace the design onto the background fabric. You may be surprised to learn that, yes, you can see the pattern lines through black fabric. I learned how to do this when copying Sashiko designs onto dark Indigo fabric. Make sure your pattern lines are dark and bold. When you copy the pattern, go over the lines on your copy with black Sharpie Marker. The fine point, not the extra fine. Then use a light box with a bright light. I have been using one of the newer LED flat panel light boxes and it works great. If you plan on doing this tracing on a window, do it on a bright day in the middle of the afternoon. <br />
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On dark fabrics I love to use the Clover white marking pen #517. These pens are fine point, roller ball point pens that go on clear and dry quickly to a chalky white, very fine line. This line will not wipe off while you work and handle the fabric, but instantly come off with water, or just the steam of your iron.<br />
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I demonstrated how to make bias stems for flowers in a previous blog article on applique, so I will not repeat that, or the basic technique of turned edge hand applique. Just a few pointers. <br />
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Make plastic templates the finished size of your applique pieces. Trace around the templates on the good side of your fabric (not the back), with a marking tool that will come off (test this). Laying the fabric on a sand paper board will prevent it from slipping while you are tracing. The line will be your turning line, so you want to be able to see it clearly. Cut out your pieces leaving a 3/16" seam allowance beyond your marked line. This is about half way between 1/8" and 1/4". It is not critical if this varies a bit, as it will be turned under during the applique process. Just be aware, 1/8" is not really enough, and 1/4" is often a bit to much, so something in between works best.<br />
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When you are sewing, turn under the edge of your fabric right to the turn line, then finger press with your thumb and take a couple of stitches. Only turn under the fabric just 1/2"-3/4" ahead of where you are stitching. As you go around outside curves, take small stitches and adjust the fold of your edge frequently (sometimes every stitch) so you have a nice curve and not several flat sides like a stop sign. When you are approaching an inside point (like the notches between flower petals), clip your seam allowance once right at the base of the valley just up to the turn line. As you sew and get closer to this valley, your seam allowance will get smaller and smaller until there is no seam allowance at all.<br />
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Your stitches should get closer together, and you need to take a deeper stitch, beyond the turn line, creating a bit of satin stitching right over the valley. Then begin increasing your stitch spacing, back to about 1/8" apart again. Note the satin stitching over the base of the valleys on my flower. Choose a close matching thread for this so it does not show much.<br />
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To make perfect circles for your centers, use a template form the correct size. I like Perfect Circles by Karen Kay Buckley. This pack has all the circle sizes you need for most projects and they are heat resistant, so you can baste around your fabric circle then pull and tighten the basting forming the fabric around the circle template. While you have the basting tight, iron the circle, setting the perfect circular edge, then remove the template.<br />
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Stitching down your circles is just a breeze as the edges are already turned perfectly!<br />
Here is our finished applique. We will be trimming this block later when we make the blocks for next month and attach them to the bottom of the flowers.<br />
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Thanks for following along. Happy stitching.<br />
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<h4>
<span style="color: cyan;">Steve</span></h4>
Stevenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06022843432830788973noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4421689124616272485.post-10241866636803954602017-06-09T11:54:00.000-07:002017-06-09T11:54:10.895-07:00Twilight Garden - Block Six - Picnic<h3>
Fabric Selection</h3>
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This month we are using quite a few fabrics in our block to give it that scrappy look. My block is going to lean more toward the reds, beige and gray. I like having a couple of very distinct reds in this block, both in the center checkerboard design, and in the bordering rectangles. I also am using a couple of plaid, gray fabrics. These are only being used in the checkerboard, but really give it a lot of visual interest and some motion to carry your eyes from place to place.<br />
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The fabrics pictured at right show the color range and the value changes from light to dark. The darkest at the top is the pure black that I am using for the background setting triangles.<br />
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Pattern Errors</h3>
I am just going to begin this month's article by pointing out some rather big errors in the pattern for block six.<br />
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I had been really looking forward to making this block, as I think it is one of the prettiest in the quilt, and it is very scrappy, including many different fabrics. I had pre-cut all of my pieces as per the instructions and sat down to make the block. As I was assembling the different units and pieces, it became clear that the measurements for some of the pieces were wrong. Fortunately, some pieces are too large, and can just be cut down to the correct size, but some are really too small and will require re-cutting if you have already cut them out.<br />
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Under "Cutting Instructions", where it says from a Dark Fabric: The pieces for A are correct and will work, but the pieces for B - Cut four squares 3 1/4" x 3 1/4" should be larger squares. This change is necessary because of a measurement error for the center part of the block. The entire block center is a bit smaller than what is stated in the pattern, so the setting triangles, cut from the Dark Fabric, need to be a little bit larger. I would recommend cutting your B pieces from 3 3/4" squares, cut twice diagonally to create sixteen quarter square triangles.<br />
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Then under the section "From the Light Fabric" It says to cut two rectangles (piece E) 1 1/2" x 6 7/8". These should be 1 1/2" x 6 1/2". Also, for piece F, the two rectangles should measure 1 1/2" x 8 1/2" not 1 1/2" x 9".<br />
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If the center checkerboard is assembled as called for in the pattern, after pressing, the 6 x 6 checkerboard will measure 6 1/2" square. After adding the 4 border strips and pressing, it should measure 8 1/2" square, not 9" square as stated in the pattern.<br />
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Do not be alarmed by this. Continue your assembly as the pattern indicates, only substituting the larger cut B pieces as your setting triangles. This will give you enough overhang to trim your finished blocks down to 12 1/2" square. (The other error I found was under the title of the block where it says "approximate size 12 1/2" x 12" finished - this should read 12 1/2" x 12 1/2" unfinished)<br />
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I guess I was a little disappointed that this pattern was not tested and proof read, but having written patterns myself, I know how easy it is to make a error and not see it. In any case, it should not cause you much trouble, and the block will come out fine.<br />
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Assembly</h3>
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The assembly of this block is pretty straightforward. You are
essentially sewing little squares together in rows, pressing the seam
allowances in opposite directions on each row so they will "nest", then
sewing the rows together. The final row seam allowances I pressed open
to avoid too much fabric build up. <br />
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The photo at left shows the final row seams pressed open to reduce bulk<br />
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Here is the block center with the intermediate border installed. These are your light rectangles (E and F). Remember to adjust your pattern and cut these at 6 1/2" and 8 1/2". They should fit perfectly.<br />
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Your next step is to assemble the corner units that will finish the block. The cutting directions of the rectangles used in these units is correct. Simply add a setting triangle (B) to each end of the rectangles, trim off the dogears, then sew the large rectangle to the smaller one, centering each piece with one another by folding in half and matching the center lines.<br />
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Add the larger corner setting triangle (A) to the smaller rectangle side of the unit, again centering the pieces together. The edges with not align properly and that is ok. They will be trimmed in the final step. Press the seam allowances toward the large setting triangle. Repeat and make 4 of these units.<br />
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Now you want to sew the corner units to the center block. Again, find the center of each side of the block, and the center of the long side of each triangle corner unit and match them when you are aligning the corner unit on the side of the block. Sew on the top and bottom first. Press. Then sew on the sides.<br />
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Your block should then look something like this, all irregular around the outside edge. If you used the larger cutting directions I gave you at the beginning of this article, you should have plenty of trimming room around the edge of your block. The easiest way to trim is to use a 12 1/2" square ruler and line up the center point of the checkerboard with the measuring lines for 6 1/4" in both direction on the ruler, then adjust the rotation of the ruler so it's sides parallel the sides of your block. The setting fabric should extend beyond the ruler on all sides, and there should be at least 1/4" of space beyond all "points" on the block. <br />
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Trim block to 12 1/2" square.<br />
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<br />Stevenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06022843432830788973noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4421689124616272485.post-23578334015822342602017-05-04T12:27:00.000-07:002017-05-04T12:34:58.088-07:00Twilight Gardens - Dutch Tulips<h4>
Block 5 - Dutch Tulips</h4>
If you followed along on my earlier article, Applique Tutorial, you may have already started or completed block 5. I wrote that tutorial just a little early, as I know many quilters are not applique people and sometimes get discouraged just at the mention of the word.<br />
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In reality, applique is not that difficult, it is just another skill that once you add to your toolbox, will open up an enormous number of patterns to you. If you are already skilled at applique, you probably have a favorite method you like to use, and so by all means proceed. My tutorial focused on a method of preparation of the pieces that I had never done before, so it was a learning experience for me too. I thought it worked very well, and, had the added benefit, that once the pieces are prepared, you can applique them to the background either by hand or by machine, whichever you choose.<br />
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We have two groups of fabrics for this block. The first group includes the block background. This is the first block where I have selected a fabric other than solid black for my background. This dark charcoal with a subtle stripe is just a little different, and provides some nice texture for the open areas surrounding the flowers. I also selected 3 blue fabrics to use for the tulips and a single green (plain) fabric to use for the bias stems and the leaves. The applique design is simple and these are nice high contrast fabrics with the background.<br />
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The second group of fabrics forms the piano key strip that runs along
the base of this block. I selected a mix of solid look fabrics, and ones
with patterns, textures, and contrasting colors. I purposely stayed
with warmer tones and a couple of grays. These will each contribute a
couple of pieces to the pieced strip, just in random order.<br />
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The strip is very easy to construct. We cut 13 rectangles from this group of fabrics (2 or 3 from each) that are 1 1/2" x 5 1/2". Then arrange them in a pleasant, random fashion and sew them together with a 1/4" seam. Press all seams in the same direction.<br />
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Set this pieced strip aside while we do the applique.<br />
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Refer to my earlier article, Applique Tutorial, for specific instructions on preparing your applique pieces, and also hand sewing to the background.<br />
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For placement of the pieces, I like to transfer the outline design of the block onto the background fabric. So, the pattern has you start by cutting out a 9 1/2" x 13 1/2" piece from the background. I cut mine so that the lines on the fabric were vertical, but that is just individual preference.<br />
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Use a light box, or work against a bright window. Cover your pattern with the background fabric. Position the fabric over the pattern so that you will have some trimming room around the design on all sides when you are done. I centered the design left to right, and positioned it so that I had about 1 3/4" of background space above the top of the center tulip.<br />
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Trace the design onto the fabric with your favorite washable (removable)
marker. For dark fabrics like this, my favorite marking pen is the
<a href="http://www.oneworldfabrics.com/shop/c/p/Clover-White-Marking-Pen-CL517-x20320180.htm" target="_blank">Clover #517 white marking pen</a>. It creates a fine white line that can
easily be seen on any medium to dark value fabric. It is permanent
while you are working, and will not wipe away, even with a lot of
handling. Then it completely comes out with a little water, or the steam
of an iron. So easy!<br />
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Use these lines as your placement guides when you begin sewing your pieces down. Begin with the stems. I did the two side stems first, clipping them in the middle where they overlap to create a miter that would easily by covered by the vertical stem.<br />
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For hand applique, you can position the pieces, and hold them in
place with a washable basting glue (like Roxanne), or just pin them in
place with small applique pins.<br />
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Applique pins are a
special type of pin. They are shorter than regular quilting pins to
prevent your thread from getting tangled around them as you are
working. They are available from many companies, but the best on the
market, bar none, are those from Little House of Japan. They have the
finest shaft of any applique pins so they don't distort your fabrics,
and a very small glass head to grip. I LOVE them. <a href="http://www.oneworldfabrics.com/shop/c/p/Little-House-Applique-Pins-441070-x20321294.htm" target="_blank">Little House Applique Pins</a>.<br />
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Proceed to applique all leaves in place. When you reach to tulips be sure to applique the left and right outside pieces down first, then the center of each tulip. On mine, I fussy cut the woven accent design on one of the blue fabrics to fall down the center of each of the side tulips.<br />
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Once your applique is finished, stitch the piano key strip to the bottom of your applique block, being sure to incorporate the center stem of the tulips into the seam. Carefully position before you sew.<br />
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Once the two units are sewn together, press the seam allowance toward the applique block. Center and trim the finished block to measure 12 1/2" tall x 13 1/2" wide. Note this is a different size than the previous blocks we have made. This is because we will be adding additional sashing around all the blocks. The sizes will all work out in the end.<br />
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<h4>
<span style="color: cyan;">Steven</span></h4>
Stevenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06022843432830788973noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4421689124616272485.post-4231513878969026542017-04-16T12:38:00.000-07:002017-04-16T12:38:46.690-07:00Twilight Gardens - Block 4Well, some of you may have wondered if I was ever going to get around to posting the 4th block of Twilight Gardens. I apologize for the delay. I was out of town at the beginning of the month, then right when I returned, I came down with a round of the flu that was the worst I've had in years. I am just now getting over it, and my energy level has been low for several days.<br />
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Fortunately, this block is the same pattern as that of Block 2, so I will not go into detail about the construction of the block, but I did want to share my fabric choices, and my reasoning. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fabrics for Block 4</td></tr>
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Whereas Block 2 had a distinctly reddish overtone to the fabric colors and was warmer looking, I wanted this one to look a little different. I guess this is just another way of making the block distinctive even though it is the same pattern. I had quite a few cooler grayish tones available, and particularly, some with a bit of green color, so that is what I was aiming for with these fabrics. <br />
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I still used black as my background and then choose a darker gray as my outer corners. This sets the neutral gray as the tone for the block and leaves the lighter, more contrast fabrics as the focus of the star itself. The outer star points are the lighter gray with the ticking pattern. There are two of these fabrics (very similar) included in the kit for this quilt. This one is the one that has a subtle gray-green cast, not the tan one. I then follow the green theme by selecting the distinctly green primitive pattern with lines and stars in the weave. <br />
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The central star is made up of a lighter tan fabric for the center square (there are several similar ones in the kit that would all look good here), and a pale green fabric, with brown check, for the points. The background for the central star is a medium brown fabric with a square pattern in the weave. <br />
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Block Construction</h4>
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Don't forget to trim down the quarter-square triangle units for this block to 3 1/2" square. You can use any square ruler that is at least 3 1/2". Line up the unit with the diagonal mark on your ruler. The center of the block should fall right at the 1 3/4" lines. Trim a small amount from the first two sides. Spin the block 180 degrees, then line up using the diagonal, and the 3 1/2" ruler lines. Note that the center of the block should still fall at the 1 3/4" marks on the ruler. Trim the last two sides of the unit.<br />
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The assembly of this block is the same as in Block 2. I will mention an error in the pattern for block 4 - In the section "Making the Center Star Points" the first paragraph should begin "With right sides together, layer a light 2" (d) square onto rectangle (c) as shown."<br />
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Also, In the section "Marking the Large Star Points", Just to clarify which pieces are being used, when pairing up the fabrics for the Quarter-Square Triangle Units, you will be using pieces C, E, and two of piece D.<br />
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Other than that, the diagrams on the pattern page are correct, and the block should go together easily.<br />
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Remember that when doing the final block assembly, you can reduce bulk by pressing your seam allowances open rather than to one side. This is always a little more time consuming, but in the case of this block, it does help to make the finished block lay flat.<br />
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Your finished block should measure 12 1/2" square. You will notice as we proceed on with Block 5 that we are starting to see blocks with different outer measurements. This is due to the irregular sashing panels that will be used between some of the blocks in the finished quilt. We will talk more about this later.<br />
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Have fun with this one.<br />
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<h4>
<span style="color: cyan;">Steven</span></h4>
Stevenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06022843432830788973noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4421689124616272485.post-72405640753288699162017-03-30T15:55:00.000-07:002017-03-30T15:55:27.871-07:00Applique TutorialThose of you who are following along with the construction of Twilight Gardens may have been wondering about the applique coming up in block 5. We are not quite there yet, but I thought I would give you a little primer on one way to do applique.<br />
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It seems there are dozens of ways to applique one fabric to another, and ultimately, you need to try a few methods and find the one you like the best and gives you the best results. I tend to be a hand applique person, and many of you are not, and prefer to do everything by machine. The applique in the Twilight Gardens quilt can be done by hand or machine, and this method of prepping your applique pieces can be used for either method. If you have another method you would like to use on this quilt, please feel free to do that. The main thing is that you are enjoying the technique and it is achieving the results you like.<br />
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Preparing your applique pieces</h4>
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pISYmBeWtIE/WNxgNuZh-OI/AAAAAAAAAVY/XbT7sZ-1ALwAKqB-Z4o3rUxvtSo8xforwCEw/s1600/IMG_2817.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pISYmBeWtIE/WNxgNuZh-OI/AAAAAAAAAVY/XbT7sZ-1ALwAKqB-Z4o3rUxvtSo8xforwCEw/s320/IMG_2817.JPG" width="240" /></a>Normally when I do applique, I like to do simple needle-turn. This eliminates the need to pre-turn the edges of your pieces. But I thought I would try a new method. I have seen this demonstrated, and it seemed like a pretty easy method and one that could be used for either hand or machine.<br />
Start by tracing your pattern pieces onto the paper (non slick) side of a
piece of freezer paper. If you need it, use a light box or a well lit
window to help you see the pattern clearly. Make sure you trace an outline for each piece you will be appliqueing, as the freezer paper templates can not be reused. Label them if there is any confusion about where they go in the block design.<br />
Cut out the templates right on the line, and separate them into piles based on the fabric that will be used for each applique piece. In this case I have flower petals in either medium or light blue, and leaves that will all be cut out of a single green fabric.<br />
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I like to use a separate pair of scissors to cut paper from the good ones I use to cut fabric with. This keeps my fabric shears sharper longer. <br />
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Now, using a water soluble glue stick, apply a little glue on the center of the paper (non slick) side of each template and glue them down to the wrong side of your fabric. Leave 1/2" space between all templates.<br />
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Once you have your templates glued down, using your fabric shears, cut the fabric pieces out leaving a scant 1/4" seam allowance (about 3/16" is about right) on all sides.<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LZhbNKWQE0c/WNxgX9u_KKI/AAAAAAAAAV0/kUnGmHWASvQNSKxYfNndL3DDzxU3kpy3wCLcB/s1600/IMG_2861.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LZhbNKWQE0c/WNxgX9u_KKI/AAAAAAAAAV0/kUnGmHWASvQNSKxYfNndL3DDzxU3kpy3wCLcB/s320/IMG_2861.JPG" width="240" /></a> Now we will start turning the raw edges of the fabric. If there are any sharp points on your applique shapes, begin by folding over the point first. Using a mini iron and a stiletto that will not melt, gently iron the seam allowance over the template, with the crease right on the edge of the freezer paper. The seam allowance should lightly adhere to the slick side of the freezer paper which is now facing up. <br />
Follow around the edge of your template turning the edge with the stiletto and gently ironing with the mini iron to hold in place. The example shown in the photos has all convex sides, but if your piece has a tighter concave curve or an inside point, you will need to clip into the seam allowance almost all the way to the freezer paper to have it conform to the shape easily. Clip only once for an inside point, make a few clips for a curve.<br />
Once you make it all the way around your piece it should look like the photos below.<br />
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The next piece you need to prep is the stems. These also can be made a variety of different ways. The method I will show you here is one of the oldest. It was the first method I learned and one I still prefer for doing small bias stems.<br />
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DX26LXxlDI8/WNxgYnLe63I/AAAAAAAAAWA/nb693Padc0UYhFSSfIq_xZpxiUCcBh9AQCLcB/s1600/IMG_2866.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DX26LXxlDI8/WNxgYnLe63I/AAAAAAAAAWA/nb693Padc0UYhFSSfIq_xZpxiUCcBh9AQCLcB/s320/IMG_2866.JPG" width="320" /></a> <a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/--nVkGvFFb2o/WNxgY3GHIBI/AAAAAAAAAWE/jJl4rP-3dlMIk1om1ZtiYhfEFsLh2T-MQCLcB/s1600/IMG_2867.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/--nVkGvFFb2o/WNxgY3GHIBI/AAAAAAAAAWE/jJl4rP-3dlMIk1om1ZtiYhfEFsLh2T-MQCLcB/s320/IMG_2867.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
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Fold over the corner of your stem fabric forming a 45 degree angle. Cut how ever many strips you need off the corner so your strips are cut on the bias.<br />
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jb4MJ7lRWHM/WNxgZJq48ZI/AAAAAAAAAWI/wFMmSIHz0pMIbEMFej7MGbpuWMusyA0ZACLcB/s1600/IMG_2868.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jb4MJ7lRWHM/WNxgZJq48ZI/AAAAAAAAAWI/wFMmSIHz0pMIbEMFej7MGbpuWMusyA0ZACLcB/s320/IMG_2868.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
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Fold these strips in half down the length of the strip and mark a sew line using a contrasting marking tool at a width slightly wider than your finished stem should be. </div>
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Here I am marking at a little over 1/8" for a 1/8" finished width.</div>
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Use a set of press bars for making bias strips. They come in metal, and heat resistant plastic. They both work well, but the metal ones can get hot to the touch. Stitch on your marked line and trim the seam allowance down to less than the width of your finished stem. Here I am trimming seam allowance to less than 1/8". Insert the appropriate size press bar and roll the tube so the seam can be pressed the back side of the stem and not show.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Once the seam allowance is pressed to the back, remove the bar and turn over your stem.<br />
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Pin the stems in place first. Use a fine thread with matching color to applique them down. They can be either machine sewn using a close matching thread color and a blind hem stitch, or they can be hand appliqued. I like to use Kimono brand 100 wt. silk thread by Superior Threads. It is very fine and nearly invisible. It comes in 80 colors and is strong for it's weight.</div>
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When appliqueing by hand take small stitches. Drop the needle into the
background fabric right adjacent to the applique piece, then bring the
needle back up slightly under the edge of the applique, and out right at
the edge fold. Repeat this stitch along all edges.<br />
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Once the pieces are stitched in place, turn over the piece and locate the individual pieces with freezer paper still attached inside. CAREFULLY with a pair of applique scissors that are sharp right to the point, cut a small slit in the background directly underneath your applique piece. Be very careful to stay far from the sew edges. You just need a small hole large enough to pull the freezer paper through. Using a stiletto or pair of tweezers, grab the paper and give a slight tug to release the glue. Remove the paper from the back. <br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_KvSG8AtjzY/WNxgctcZgXI/AAAAAAAAAXM/9fo1X6gEplcYGWMZH2mBuf2WoEgmjPN8wCLcB/s1600/IMG_2886.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_KvSG8AtjzY/WNxgctcZgXI/AAAAAAAAAXM/9fo1X6gEplcYGWMZH2mBuf2WoEgmjPN8wCLcB/s320/IMG_2886.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
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Here is trick to make your hand sewing much easier. If you use silk thread, you may have the problem of the needle coming un-threaded occasionally due to the fine thread. When you thread your needle, pull a loop of thread through the eye of the needle and loop over the point of the needle, then pull snug into a small knot at the eye. This will keep the thread put while you are sewing. When you reach the end of the thread, tie off and cut the knot off the needle by gently running the blade of your scissors along the eye of the needle. <br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9IeYbeOdw9E/WNxgdaHrepI/AAAAAAAAAXY/G7az7QvRxDcU60RJDCQNOrTNyuMzLeYeQCLcB/s1600/IMG_2889.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9IeYbeOdw9E/WNxgdaHrepI/AAAAAAAAAXY/G7az7QvRxDcU60RJDCQNOrTNyuMzLeYeQCLcB/s200/IMG_2889.JPG" width="200" /></a><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rcDEco5q6go/WNxgdG8VjJI/AAAAAAAAAXQ/mpMcDrUFTic0Bo7wZvjZ1y1YdcwrtFzXgCLcB/s1600/IMG_2887.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rcDEco5q6go/WNxgdG8VjJI/AAAAAAAAAXQ/mpMcDrUFTic0Bo7wZvjZ1y1YdcwrtFzXgCLcB/s200/IMG_2887.JPG" width="200" /></a><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iBS0vXmYOak/WNxgdA6J8dI/AAAAAAAAAXU/N09ydZ9xuBQdeLxYlVBZCpRzzRnKvPJ3gCLcB/s1600/IMG_2888.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iBS0vXmYOak/WNxgdA6J8dI/AAAAAAAAAXU/N09ydZ9xuBQdeLxYlVBZCpRzzRnKvPJ3gCLcB/s200/IMG_2888.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
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This method of preparing my applique pieces worked very well for this project. At first I was a little concerned about cutting the back of my project to remove paper templates, but I found this was really simple and left a very small hole that does not compromise the strength of the background.<br />
As always, I suggest trying this, as well as other methods, and choosing your favorite.<br />
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<h4>
<span style="color: cyan;">Steven</span> </h4>
<br />Stevenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06022843432830788973noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4421689124616272485.post-16575591137823729992017-03-08T18:13:00.000-08:002017-03-08T18:13:55.509-08:00Twilight Gardens Block 3Before we begin talking about block 3, I need to mention a couple of errors in the printed pattern for block 2. They are not errors of cutting or dimensions. When assembling the flying geese units that form the center star points, the directions should read, "layer a light 2" d square onto rectangle c as shown". You may not have even noticed this was wrong.<br />
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The other error is actually in the diagram for the outer corner units. Beginning halfway through the pattern, the small a/b half square triangle units are flipped with the dark and light side reversed from where they should be. Fortunately, the star block looks great made either way, so if you followed the layout this way, it is not a serious problem. I assembled my block this way, and I actually liked it better than the layout in the actual quilt.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My fabric selections </td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> </td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> </td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> </td></tr>
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Moving on, as I mentioned last month, the block patterns for blocks 3 and 4 are identical to the block patterns for blocks 1 and 2 respectively. So we have been through the construction sequence already. I will tell you a bit about how I selected fabrics for this block. I wanted two things in this block - a center star that popped, and outer corners that used the hombre plaid. I love using hombre plaids in quilt blocks. They tend to have this luminescent look about them, almost as if they were lit from behind. My outer star points are cut from a fairly dark gray. It has enough contrast with the pure black background to show up nicely, but not enough to take away from the center star.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Half Square Triangles</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Quarter Square Triangles</td></tr>
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Just a small reminder that when you are cutting out your triangle
pieces for this block, do make sure you cut them as the pattern states,
as either quarter square triangles, or half square triangles as in the
two example photos. This is very important, as the sides with a bias
edge should always be pieced into the block, and not fall along the
outer edge. This is because the bias edges have more stretch and give to them, and you do not want the outside edges of the blocks to stretch out of shape before you have a chance to sew them into the quilt top.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chain piecing HST's</td></tr>
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I also wanted to mention that many pieces in these blocks lend themselves to chain piecing. The half square triangle units can be sewn in a chain of 4, as can be the flying geese. Adding one side triangle to one center triangle for each of 4 units, then pressing and adding the next four side triangles in a chain. This not only saves time, but often results in more accurate piecing.</div>
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The layout for this block is identical to that of block 1. If you have
trouble getting any of the seams to lay flat, consider pressing them
open to divide the bulk in two directions. The center block at left
forms the center square when laying out the full block. (Yes, I realize
the photo on the right has an error. The bottom right corner square is turned 180 degrees from where it
should be in the block layout photo. Unfortunately, I sewed the block together and missed the opportunity to take a corrected photo.
oops). The photo below is correct, however. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Center Star Layout</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Entire Block Layout</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finished Block - measures 12 1/2" square</td></tr>
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And here is the completed block (with correct placement of the lower corner. This block has a very distinct neutral color as compared with the first couple of blocks. All the fabrics in this quilt are fairly muted in color, but some lean more towards green or brown or gray or red, so I am trying to get a mix of block colors. In block 4, I think I am going to pick a mix that shows a bit more green-gray coloring.<br />
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The block for May (block 5) will be our first applique block. There are many methods of doing applique that will work, and I encourage you to use your favorite method. If you have a method you like, you may want to get started on that block a little early, as the applique might take you a little longer than the piecing we have been doing. If you are new to applique, or don't have a preferred method, I will be demonstrating a method for preparing your applique pieces using freezer paper. The pieces may then be appliqued to the background either by hand or machine. I will talk more about this in the next article.<br />
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Thanks for following along.<br />
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<h3>
<span style="color: cyan;">Steven </span> </h3>
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Stevenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06022843432830788973noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4421689124616272485.post-82957420809405655722017-02-08T17:58:00.000-08:002017-02-08T17:58:28.425-08:00Continuing On - Twilight Gardens Block 2<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-v2cuk0_X_0s/WJu13ZXU3cI/AAAAAAAAAQM/J6OTQK7tXBMds7-yy_2jLTQjvB50ipDOACLcB/s1600/TG%2B%25283%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-v2cuk0_X_0s/WJu13ZXU3cI/AAAAAAAAAQM/J6OTQK7tXBMds7-yy_2jLTQjvB50ipDOACLcB/s200/TG%2B%25283%2529.JPG" width="150" /></a>If you have read through the pattern for Twilight Gardens, and looked carefully at the photos of the quilt, you may have noticed that block 3 of the quilt is the same pattern as block 1 and block 4 is the same as block 2. Of course the fabrics will change, but the construction steps are the same. It is fun to see the same block made with different fabric choices, so you might be giving that a little thought before selecting fabrics for next month. I like to lay out a few fabric possibilities and view them next to the blocks that have already been made. After all, they will all reside in the same sampler quilt once finished. I think you will find that if you do this, you will easily be able to select a few fabrics for your next block. <br />
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When choosing your fabrics for block 2, remember it's placement in the quilt is top and center. Your eyes are drawn to this position, and having a block with a little more contrast and color may balance out some of the focus on the Daylilies and Twinkling Stars in the bottom two corner blocks. I made sure to choose a couple of red toned fabrics for my center star, and I used pure black as my darkest fabric. I wanted a very high contrast between all the outer star points and my background fabric, so I picked one of the lightest tans for star points to set against the black.<br />
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As I mentioned in my last article, I try to incorporate one or two patterned fabrics into each block as well. Many of the fabrics in this quilt read as simple solids and textures, so the use of a patterned fabric will stand out, and give your block a lot of visual interest. One of the patterned fabrics I chose for this block was the red plaid. I put this right in the very center of the inner star. I used one other patterned fabric, a nice medium scale brown/gray plaid that I used for the 4 outer block corners.<br />
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Follow the cutting directions carefully. It is very important that you cut some of the triangles as half square triangles (square cut in half once diagonally), and some as quarter square triangles (square cut twice diagonally, yielding four triangles). Not only does this affect the size of the triangles, it also affects which sides of the triangles are straight of grain, and which are bias edges. We always try to keep the grain of the fabrics going the same direction in the block if possible. It will yield a block that is more stable with less chance of distortion. <br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NVoIX_x8-3k/WJu5IB3PuTI/AAAAAAAAAQc/xTQlJco3zw4bcA2LxnFuTi3vw07DAlWCwCLcB/s1600/IMG_2737.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NVoIX_x8-3k/WJu5IB3PuTI/AAAAAAAAAQc/xTQlJco3zw4bcA2LxnFuTi3vw07DAlWCwCLcB/s200/IMG_2737.JPG" width="150" /></a><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uueueY2dKF8/WJu5Lcld4OI/AAAAAAAAAQk/FjBD5uvIeiYBsttkR7uEPhhwCFx64GXTQCLcB/s1600/IMG_2739.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uueueY2dKF8/WJu5Lcld4OI/AAAAAAAAAQk/FjBD5uvIeiYBsttkR7uEPhhwCFx64GXTQCLcB/s200/IMG_2739.JPG" width="200" /></a>At first glance, Block 2 looks like quite a complex block, but it is made from very simple units, and as you see each step, you will realize it is not difficult at all. The designer does make one very good suggestion with this block, and that is to press your seams open. I did this throughout most the block, and it made construction a lot easier. Note the open seams in these two photos. You will also see seams pressed open in later photos as we begin to put the units together.<br />
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Begin by making large and small half square triangle units A/B and a/b. These are cut a little oversized and then trimmed down to the correct size as in the previous block.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Note the diagonal direction</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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You will then make rectangular units F/G by lining up a square G over one end of a rectangle F, right sides together. On 4 of these, draw a diagonal line corner to corner on the back of square G. Sew on this line and clip extra corner fabric away leaving just a 1/4" seam allowance. Repeat these steps with the other 4 rectangles, but draw the diagonal line in the opposite direction, so you end up with 4 right hand units and 4 left hand units. They will be mirror images of each other. Flip the triangle corners and press.<br />
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Lay out the block corner units using one large and one small half square triangle unit, and one each left and right handed rectangle unit. <br />
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Press the seams open to reduce bulk.<br />
You will then make 4 large hourglass units from quarter square triangles C, D, and E<br />
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The seams on this unit can be pressed in rotation, like a pinwheel. See on the back photo the 4 seams are pressed in a counter clockwise direction. This allows the center seam intersection to lay flatter. This can be done just about any time you have a 4-way corner in piecing.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--DRdcTUwRsA/WJvFcryiTUI/AAAAAAAAASY/6ksGKSECkY0Dw-wolWZfB-uDuhmXhq4NwCLcB/s1600/IMG_2751.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--DRdcTUwRsA/WJvFcryiTUI/AAAAAAAAASY/6ksGKSECkY0Dw-wolWZfB-uDuhmXhq4NwCLcB/s200/IMG_2751.JPG" width="200" /></a>Our next unit is the Flying Geese. They are made the same way as the rectangle units above. Lay a square d over one end of a rectangle c, right sides together. Draw a diagonal corner to corner on the back of the square and sew on this line. Trim the excess triangles leaving a 1/4" seam allowance. Flip and press these triangle corners. Now add a second square d on the opposite end of the rectangle c. This square will slightly overlap the corner of the previous piece.<br />
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Draw the diagonal line in the opposite direction to the first one, as seen in the photo above. Sew on this line, trim and press the corner. Your finished Flying Geese units should have a 1/4" allowance above the point.<br />
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You will assemble 4 side units, each from one Flying Geese unit, and one Hourglass unit. Then lay out your side units, corner units and the large center square to form the block. Sew together in rows, pressing the seams open. This is important. There is just too much bulk generated from all the seams in this block. As you sew the final rows together, press the seams open again. <br />
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You may have noticed that I have changed the placement of two of the fabrics in this block from the original pattern. I rotated the small half square triangles in the corner units so the gray is joining the red inner star points rather than the black. When I was laying out this block, I just liked the way this looked better. I just point this out to show you that you can make whatever changes you want during construction of your blocks. It is your quilt, and a pattern is only a guideline, and the layout is not set in stone.<br />
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Have fun with these blocks<br />
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<h3>
<span style="color: cyan;">Steven</span></h3>
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Stevenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06022843432830788973noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4421689124616272485.post-45869906869343469612017-01-05T13:55:00.000-08:002017-01-05T13:55:03.565-08:00Twilight Gardens Block 1<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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First a word about choosing fabrics. The kit includes lots of fabrics to choose from, and you don't have to use every one, but the scrappier look will be achieved by including as many of the fabrics as you can. The palette of fabrics distinctly leans towards darker fabrics, so a dark is considered black or near black. There are medium darks, mediums, and lights. The lights might be considered mediums in another project, but relative to the fabrics in this quilt, they are the lightest. I suggest picking fabrics from these groups as the pattern specifies, and as you select for each block, pick a group that all go together nicely, and include one or more patterned fabrics for texture and interest.<br />
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I have selected these 6 fabrics at left, with the top three used for the larger, outer star, and the bottom 3 used for the smaller, inner star.<br />
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Be sure when you are cutting your pieces, to cut the triangles for A, B, and D as half square triangles, and the triangles for C as quarter square triangles (as pictured in the center above). This will assure that the outside edges of your block will all be straight of grain. <br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BNM8aGMXAS8/WG6o28hQ2yI/AAAAAAAAAPg/_1rhhniksFkOUkFid1brnF_xIkWplsFCgCEw/s1600/IMG_2657.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BNM8aGMXAS8/WG6o28hQ2yI/AAAAAAAAAPg/_1rhhniksFkOUkFid1brnF_xIkWplsFCgCEw/s200/IMG_2657.JPG" width="200" /></a>Note that my medium dark fabric for the background of the inner star (charcoal gray) is just a bit lighter than the pure black fabric (dark), and I have also chosen two lights for the center star. One goes in the center (space d) and the other is used for the star points (space c). Although the two lights are very similar in value, they have a nice variation in texture.<br />
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Assembling the pieces is pretty straightforward according to the printed pattern. Sewing pieces A and B together to form the outer corner squares of the block, and sewing D's to triangle C making flying geese units that are used as the outer star points.<br />
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Be sure to trim down your half square triangles. Line up the diagonal reference line on your ruler with the diagonal seam, and trim to 3 1/2" square. Also, trim your dog ears off your flying geese units. It will make your final seams less bulky, and the finished block will lay flatter.</div>
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The flying geese units for the inner star points are made using a
slightly different method. Start with a rectangle and a square. Lay the
square over one side of the rectangle aligning the edges. draw a line
on the diagonal of the square, and sew on that line. Trim excess fabric
beyond 1/4" from the seam. Flip and press the corner. Repeat this with
a second square on the other end of the rectangle, sewing the diagonal
in the opposite direction.<br />
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The photo at right shows the units to form the inner star. You may notice these yarn dyed cottons will fray a little more than your typical prints. Just use a little care when cutting and moving your pieces, and this should not give you any trouble at all. Use the center square, 4 flying geese units, and 4 corner squares. Assemble the block in rows. Press your seams toward the corner squares on the top and bottom rows, and towards the center square on the middle row. The intersections of your rows should then nest nicely. The final two seams should either be pressed toward the center of the block, or pressed open if it lays flatter that way.<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bEdo2qp5SvQ/WG6o6aOsJ8I/AAAAAAAAAPg/NzfgU6xd6Ec3PNhoLydiuyn3EEs2EANaQCEw/s1600/IMG_2681.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bEdo2qp5SvQ/WG6o6aOsJ8I/AAAAAAAAAPg/NzfgU6xd6Ec3PNhoLydiuyn3EEs2EANaQCEw/s200/IMG_2681.JPG" width="200" /></a>The resulting star block will be used at the center in the larger star. Assemble the large star just as the small one, using the small star as the center, 4 flying geese units, and the 4 half square triangle units as the block corners. Be sure to arrange the HST corner blocks with the light and dark in the correct location.<br />
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Put this star together just as before, in rows, pressing the seams in the same direction we did for the small star. You will likely find the final two row seams on the block will want to be pressed open to help your block lay flat.<br />
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Your block should measure 12 1/2" square and will finish in the quilt at 12". If you should have any questions, or would like to leave feedback about this block, or the Twilight Gardens quilt, use the comments section below.<br />
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Thanks for following along.<br />
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<h2>
<span style="color: cyan; font-size: large;">Steven</span></h2>
Stevenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06022843432830788973noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4421689124616272485.post-51414848272578140222016-12-27T16:19:00.002-08:002016-12-27T16:19:56.526-08:00Organizing Twilight GardensWhether you are purchasing <a href="http://www.oneworldfabrics.com/shop/c/p/Twilight-Gardens-Block-of-the-Month-PREORDER-x22485507.htm" target="_blank">a kit for this quilt from One World Fabrics</a>, or you are putting together your own collection of fabrics, it is really easiest to organize them, overall by value, and then by color or scale of pattern.<br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-szs22m-sYFo/WGL0Wi4nBjI/AAAAAAAAAKo/Y3HaZxS8OJQfdrBvPmnTMEwUY182jimlwCEw/s1600/Organize%2B%25282%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-szs22m-sYFo/WGL0Wi4nBjI/AAAAAAAAAKo/Y3HaZxS8OJQfdrBvPmnTMEwUY182jimlwCEw/s320/Organize%2B%25282%2529.JPG" width="240" /></a>The quilt pattern specifies the use of light, dark, medium, etc. fabric pieces for each block, and if you have your fabrics divided this way to start with, it makes it very easy to pick fabrics from these groups that will go well together in a block. Some fabrics in the kit have warmer tones and some cooler tones. The solid black is used in many blocks as it really provides a dark ground and showcases the other fabrics, allowing you to see their subtle colors. A few of these basic fabrics lean a little toward red, others lean a bit toward green. There are enough to choose from that you can put together ones from each group that emphasize one color in a block. Keep in mind that a medium-light in one block, might be a medium in another block depending on the other fabrics you put with it. <br />
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There are also a few fabrics which are distinct and have a special place in the quilt. Some of these include the blues that are used in the tulip applique and the basket blocks, the Ecru that is used as the light flowers, the stronger reds which will be the inner border of the quilt, as well as appearing in several of the blocks and sashings. The sashings, including both the piano keys and the checkerboard, and are made from leftover bits from the block piecing and applique. They include little pieces of everything, and you are free to emphasize any of the fabrics you like the best when putting these together. There is a dark charcoal with subtle stripe included with this pack in the kit. This is used as the background for the tulip block.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-regaiIjCZH8/WGL0WQS2pcI/AAAAAAAAAKw/OZvTmKKJEKIqUS7WK3sJmgg2B6obpmkMQCEw/s1600/Organize%2B%25281%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-regaiIjCZH8/WGL0WQS2pcI/AAAAAAAAAKw/OZvTmKKJEKIqUS7WK3sJmgg2B6obpmkMQCEw/s320/Organize%2B%25281%2529.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
Many of the weaves included in the kit are very simple, and read mostly as one color, however, it is really nice to incorporate fabrics with a little more pattern and visual interest. In each block, try to use one patterned fabric that will stand out against some of the tone on tones. It may be the background surrounding a star, or even the points of a star. Plaids and fancy weave patterns will look great if you scatter them throughout the quilt, and don't forget to use them in the sashings as well. The sashings revisit all the fabrics used in each block and carry those colors and textures to other areas of the quilt.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SStaIyV8ooc/WGL_kw2aK8I/AAAAAAAAAK8/Ei3u3f8PJ1wT_2J2HOq8iXAUsfu7OZsdQCLcB/s1600/TG%2B%25282%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SStaIyV8ooc/WGL_kw2aK8I/AAAAAAAAAK8/Ei3u3f8PJ1wT_2J2HOq8iXAUsfu7OZsdQCLcB/s320/TG%2B%25282%2529.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
We look forward to starting on block 1 of Twilight Gardens right after the 1st of the year. Be sure to read through the pattern to familiarize yourself with the sections of the quilt, the fabrics used in each block, the techniques used, and the overall assembly including piano key and checkerboard sashings.<br />
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Remember, One World Fabrics's kit for this quilt is not packaged monthly, but rather as a single quilt kit, allowing you to pick the placement of fabrics in blocks as you choose during construction. There are no print fabrics in the kit; all the fabrics are yarn dyed wovens, giving the finished quilt a really beautiful, textured look. Plenty of fabric provides lots of choices (and lots of leftovers for your stash :-) ). If you would like to order a kit for Twilight Gardens, click <a href="http://www.oneworldfabrics.com/shop/c/p/Twilight-Gardens-Block-of-the-Month-PREORDER-x22485507.htm" target="_blank">here</a>.<br />
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If you have any questions about this quilt, please leave a comment. Thanks, and Happy New Year!<br />
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<span style="color: cyan; font-size: large;">Steven</span><br />
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<br />Stevenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06022843432830788973noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4421689124616272485.post-37083698593485945862016-12-04T16:01:00.004-08:002016-12-04T16:01:42.060-08:00Looking Ahead to Twilight Gardens in 2017<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Mte8bsMcg8s/WESU_kc9FrI/AAAAAAAAAJ8/Xnv4PxXcsBEF1vORQZ31ajvEOFzbfEtJQCLcB/s1600/Twilight%2BGardens%2BLG.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Mte8bsMcg8s/WESU_kc9FrI/AAAAAAAAAJ8/Xnv4PxXcsBEF1vORQZ31ajvEOFzbfEtJQCLcB/s320/Twilight%2BGardens%2BLG.JPG" width="290" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Our trip to Quilt Market in Salt Lake City this past Spring was truly inspirational, as always. There are countless beautiful quilts, and more fabrics than you can even imagine. In fact, you almost have to turn off your sensors after a while, as every turn bombards you with more choices. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">In the genre of Taupe, one rarely finds a lot of choices, however. Although the popularity of the Taupe palette has risen noticeably over the last decade, with more and more Japanese quilts finding there way into the shows here in the U.S.; Compared to main stream designers and fabric lines, it is still a small share of what you see at Market. So, you can imagine how excited we were to see this stunning quilt hanging in the Diamond Textiles booth. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Twilight Gardens is a new quilt design from Pam Curo of Cotton Tales Designs. I have known Pam for over 10 years, and carried many of her patterns. She has always been a great designer and pattern author, both in cotton and in wool, and her preferred color palette seems to be muted country colors to darker primitive shades, with Taupe falling right in the middle. Twilight Gardens was designed exclusively for muted, textural yarn dyed cottons. The colors in the quilt are subtle, and the light values seem to sparkle against the black and darker toned backgrounds.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">I immediately found myself in a discussion of how I could bring kits for this quilt to my customers. <a href="http://www.oneworldfabrics.com/" target="_blank">One World Fabrics</a> is one of the largest retailers of Taupe palette yarn dyed cotton fabrics, and this was the perfect quilt to showcase what we offer.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2MTiWulFQxA/WESjJpelDaI/AAAAAAAAAKI/EsdKOe3pP5sQ3YAlCMStK852FD7RIW3cQCLcB/s1600/TG.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2MTiWulFQxA/WESjJpelDaI/AAAAAAAAAKI/EsdKOe3pP5sQ3YAlCMStK852FD7RIW3cQCLcB/s320/TG.JPG" width="240" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">The pattern is written in the Block of the Month style with each block
receiving it's own section. Pam has divided the quilt into 10
blocks/sections, with the last section being devoted to bordering,
and finishing the quilt. Although this can be a fun way to receive kits,
it adds a large amount to the packaging and cost of the kits, not to
mention all that shipping. With an eye toward economy, we have opted to package the entire pattern
and all the fabrics as a single kit. We will then do a series of blog articles
covering fabric organization and placement, and block construction
monthly, for those who would like to make the project as a BOM. This is really advantageous as it gives you more freedom of fabric choice and placement throughout the quilt's construction. The kits include the same fabrics as the original sample, and are generous, providing a wonderful assortment. To minimize fraying and waste, we do not recommend that you pre-wash your kit fabrics.</span><br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jTYcnLAxvoI/WESmNP4ujxI/AAAAAAAAAKQ/p51PUgTjRjQTq5wBgDRIxqR7egchzBk0wCLcB/s1600/TG%2B%25281%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jTYcnLAxvoI/WESmNP4ujxI/AAAAAAAAAKQ/p51PUgTjRjQTq5wBgDRIxqR7egchzBk0wCLcB/s320/TG%2B%25281%2529.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Yarn dyed cottons do tend to shrink a bit more than print fabrics when washed, however using 100% unwashed yarn dyed fabrics in the quilt, any shrinkage that occurs after the quilt is finished, should be uniform. I like to lay out all fabrics from the kit and organize them by size and color family. This will make selecting block and applique fabrics so much easier. Reading through the entire pattern is also very helpful, to familiarize yourself with the overall construction method and sequence. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">I look forward to hearing comments from you all once quilt construction has commenced in January.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Fabric kits for the Twilight Gardens quilt can be purchased from <a href="http://www.oneworldfabrics.com/" target="_blank">One World Fabrics</a> by following the link below.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><a href="http://www.oneworldfabrics.com/shop/Kits/p/Twilight-Gardens-Block-of-the-Month-PREORDER-x22485507.htm" target="_blank">Twilight Gardens Kit pre-order</a></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Hope you will join us.</span><br />
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<span style="color: #6fa8dc;"><span style="font-size: large;">Steven</span></span>Stevenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06022843432830788973noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4421689124616272485.post-35989481839512092292016-11-05T10:40:00.000-07:002016-11-05T10:40:00.147-07:00Shizuko Kuroha - Author, Quilt Artist, Teacher<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JsmTaLdfuZs/WB4IIIua8QI/AAAAAAAAAIk/4gqILu6H2_c3ihyLSiu-39BHKjXeiIPfwCLcB/s1600/290-0-001_Edited.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JsmTaLdfuZs/WB4IIIua8QI/AAAAAAAAAIk/4gqILu6H2_c3ihyLSiu-39BHKjXeiIPfwCLcB/s320/290-0-001_Edited.JPG" width="219" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shizuko Kuroha</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">Many of the American quilters who follow Japanese quilting are familiar with the work of Sensei, Yoko Saito, who has been a dominant influence on quilting in the USA for over a decade. But, there are several amazingly talented Japanese quilt artists that are equally influential in Japan, and barely know in the U.S. Shizuko Kuroha is one of these individuals. She has worked in various textile mediums and designed quilts, taught, and published numerous books. Some of these have been translated into English, but even her books in Japanese, are quite easy to follow by sewers with moderate experience in piecing and general sewing.</span><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yMN3iBRcCa8/WB4IWk-aK-I/AAAAAAAAAIw/RrGNYq-Pm_A6vc-rIPIu4Vr_8bv6JYmTQCEw/s1600/IMG_0998.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yMN3iBRcCa8/WB4IWk-aK-I/AAAAAAAAAIw/RrGNYq-Pm_A6vc-rIPIu4Vr_8bv6JYmTQCEw/s200/IMG_0998.JPG" width="149" /></a><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rj43oWKcOBw/WB4IWgSvAkI/AAAAAAAAAI0/ziCutZcDN0IniUheuwQ2hK4-YEa0NQivwCEw/s1600/IMG_1011.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rj43oWKcOBw/WB4IWgSvAkI/AAAAAAAAAI0/ziCutZcDN0IniUheuwQ2hK4-YEa0NQivwCEw/s200/IMG_1011.JPG" width="149" /></a><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">I was fortunate to have attended the 2014 International quilt show in Tokyo, where Shizuko Kuroha had a special exhibit of her indigo quilts. This was simply an amazing display. All the quilts from her book Indigo & Sarasa were on exhibit. The design and workmanship was exceptional, and I could have stared at these quilts for days. Being an American, I am always amazed at not only the hours of work that go into these Japanese quilts, but how all those hours are creative hand needlework, not machine sewing. Where some of the quilts at the Tokyodome were pieced by machine, just about all were hand quilted, and showed incredible workmanship in applique, embroidery, and embellishment. Shizuko Kuroha's quilts were no exception to this rule.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">Indigo
& Sarasa is now out of print in English, although you can
occasionally find copies on <a href="https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Dstripbooks&field-keywords=indigo+%26+sarasa&rh=n%3A283155%2Ck%3Aindigo+%26+sarasa" target="_blank">Amazon</a> for sale used. Be aware this book
was first published in Japanese, and there are more copies around in
Japanese than in English. One World Fabrics currently carries two of
Shizuko Kuroha's books, and both are quite unique. </span></span><br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5YQonDhrVds/WB4IIMnQrfI/AAAAAAAAAIo/5sP8h9O3pMAmfR1Up2-Zsl65R9XNdtIeACEw/s1600/290-0-014_Edited.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="318" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5YQonDhrVds/WB4IIMnQrfI/AAAAAAAAAIo/5sP8h9O3pMAmfR1Up2-Zsl65R9XNdtIeACEw/s320/290-0-014_Edited.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><br />Her
sampler book, <a href="http://www.oneworldfabrics.com/shop/Books/Japanese-CraftQuilting-Books/p/Patchwork-Lesson-Book-Shizuko-Kuroha-2900-x20321604.htm" target="_blank">Patchwork Lessons</a>, has been very popular. The block
patterns are wonderful, and she has numerous examples of how to use the
blocks creatively in tote bags, kitchen decor, gift items, as well as
quilts. The excellent photographs allow the reader to follow along the
steps of construction, even without reading the Japanese text. I also
love the fabrics used in this book. They represent the current Japanese
sense of design and color. The quilt at right shows a contemporary flair and a beautiful, subtle shading in the background.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">I love the small gifty items presented in Patchwork Lessons, and the indigo table runner is lovely. Plus the book contains 19 sampler blocks that can be used together, or separately in various projects. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">Here is an incredible quilt showing lots of variations of the lemoyne star. The use of indigo, but accentuated with a small bit of color really sets each block apart. She has also incorporated fabrics with patterns, such as stripes, to create movement.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">The
second of Ms. Kuroha's books was published just last year by Fons and
Porter. <a href="http://www.oneworldfabrics.com/shop/Books/English-CraftQuilting-Books/p/Log-Cabin-Restructured-by-Shizuko-Kuroha-1550-x20321606.htm" target="_blank">Log Cabin Restructured</a> has been translated from Japanese into
English and the projects are beautiful, intricate, and inspiring. The
simple log cabin block is taken to the next level by creating diamond,
triangle, and hexagon log cabins. There is also a pattern that uses
curved log cabin blocks. Very non-traditional, and, again the use of
traditional Taupe Japanese fabrics is so appealing. Although the blocks
tend to be rather small and intricate, this is actually a great book
for confident beginners, as the detailed photographs and instructions
are easy to follow. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">Log Cabins are one of the most versatile blocks. They can be combined to create many different patterns, especially by changing out the fabrics and their placement in the block. These blocks are rather small scale (as most Japanese piecing tends to be), but they can be made in any size you feel comfortable with. The block assembly is the same, and frankly, you will find that making small scale blocks is actually quite easy once you get the hang of it. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">Log Cabins have always been a particular favorite of mine, so I jumped on this book the moment it came out. I like intricate piecing, combined with the Japanese aesthetic of color and design. The book contains 23 projects, so lots of choices to tempt you. </span> <br />
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"> I am confident that if you love the piecing work of Yoko Saito, you will find Shizuko Kuroha equally fun and inspiring. You can find her books as well as a large selection of traditional Japanese fabrics at <a href="http://www.oneworldfabrics.com/" target="_blank">One World Fabrics</a>.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">Happy Sewing,</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><span style="color: #a2c4c9;">Steven</span></span></h4>
Stevenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06022843432830788973noreply@blogger.com2Happy Valley, OR, USA45.446787 -122.5303688000000245.357648 -122.69173030000002 45.535926 -122.36900730000002